Brief

The starting point was a study of nature, and the project followed the design language of Iris’ collection, ‘Wilderness Embodied’. The goal was to give the impression that tangled tree branches were wrapping the foot.

Form searching

It started with building the form of layered branches over a digital last. The construction was made in two parts; a hard Nylon that would support the wearer’s weight, and a TPU upper, to provide necessary comfort and flexibility.

Fixing proportions

Discovered through several e-mail exchanges with Iris, the new goal was to make the branches seem more tangled as they are in the natural setting -- and less digitally generated. Overall shape was a product of this collaborative conversation.

Construction

Several options of construction were created to find the best way to seamlessly combine the two materials.

Final geometry

Geometry was tested against scanned 3D last. Branches were blended into the thicker part at the top of the shoe shaft which provided strength to the geometry while putting the feet in. As the feet slides in, branches flex out and follow the feet shape.

Production

The weartest shoes were printed with selective sintering technique (SLS) by Materialise. Production was then printed in stereolitography (SLA) by Stratasys - in all hard resin. A total of 12 pairs was produced for the show, and painted to match the corresponding look of the collection.

Assembly, post-production

Parts were dip-colored in black. The techique provided very durable coloring as paint soaks deep into the material. The hard part - wedge was slid into the soft rubber upper. The bottom branches are wrapping around the wedge and also serve as a soft outsole glued to the hard part.

Prototype vs production

The production version printed in a hard material and had to be scaled up for easier slip-on. Unlike the prototype which was designed in combination of soft and hard materials.

Show

Show took place in Palace of Discovery in Paris. The collection was met with success and the new technique was appreciated.

Press

Press coverage contained Vogue, Dezeen and Wired